You picked up a rock that does not look like the others. It is heavy, dark, maybe magnetic, and you cannot stop wondering. Here is exactly what to do next, in order, and what to expect at each step.
Written by Brian McDonald, IMCA #3323, Treasure Coast Meteorite Co.
Start with the honest odds
Nearly every suspected meteorite turns out to be a terrestrial rock. University identification programs report that the overwhelming majority of samples submitted to them are magnetite, hematite, slag, or ordinary iron-stained stones. Experienced collectors call these meteorwrongs.
That is not a reason to dismiss your find. Real meteorites are recovered by ordinary people every year, and the ones that survive scrutiny all passed through the same process you are about to follow. The point of the steps below is to sort your rock quickly and honestly, without wasting your money or a laboratory's time.
Step 1: Leave the rock alone
Before anything else, resist the urge to improve your find. Do not scrub it, soak it, wire-brush it, or clean it with acid or chemicals. Do not cut it, grind a window into it, or break it open to see the inside. If the rock is a meteorite, its fusion crust and exterior features are part of the evidence, and aggressive cleaning destroys exactly what an expert needs to see.
Handle it as little as possible, keep it dry, and store it in a clean zip bag or wrapped in paper. Meteorites contain iron metal and can rust if stored damp, which is covered in our guide on whether meteorites rust.
Step 2: Run the basic checks at home
A few simple tests eliminate most meteorwrongs in minutes, and none of them damage the rock.
Magnet test. Most meteorites attract a strong magnet because they contain iron-nickel metal. A rock with no magnetic response at all is unlikely to be a common meteorite type, while a strongly magnetic rock could still be magnetite. The details and exceptions are in are meteorites magnetic.
Streak test. Drag the rock across the unglazed back of a ceramic tile. Meteorites leave little to no streak. A red-brown streak points to hematite, and a gray-black streak points to magnetite.
Weight and feel. Meteorites are denser than most terrestrial rocks of the same size. A rock that feels unusually heavy for its size is worth a closer look.
Visual check. Look for fusion crust, regmaglypts, and an interior with small bright metal flecks if a broken face is visible. Holes, bubbles, and a glassy, frothy texture point to slag, one of the most common meteorwrongs. Our full walkthrough is how can you tell if a meteorite is real.
Step 3: Document the find
If your rock passes the home checks, start a record before it goes anywhere. Photograph it from several angles in daylight next to a coin or ruler for scale. Write down where you found it as precisely as you can, ideally with GPS coordinates, along with the date and the circumstances of the find.
This matters for two reasons. Scientifically, meteorites are named for the place they were found, so location is part of the classification record. Practically, a documented find history is the foundation of provenance, and provenance is what separates a specimen with lasting value from an anonymous rock.
Step 4: Get expert verification
No home test is conclusive. Confirmation requires laboratory analysis of the rock's minerals and chemistry. Your main options:
University geology or planetary science departments. Some accept photos or samples of suspected meteorites for preliminary screening, often at no charge, though policies vary widely and many programs are photo-first. Check the department's website before mailing anything.
Commercial classification labs. Several laboratories classify meteorites for a fee, with costs that vary by meteorite type and lab. Planetary types cost more to confirm than ordinary chondrites because they require more analysis.
One caution as you go: a nickel spot test is often suggested online as a quick confirmation, but it produces false negatives on solid metal surfaces. Before you let a negative result discourage you, read why a nickel test can fail.
What happens if it is real
If laboratory analysis confirms a meteorite, you can pursue official classification. Under the Meteoritical Society's Guidelines for Meteorite Nomenclature, a type specimen of 20 grams or 20 percent of the total mass, whichever is less, must be deposited in an approved repository. The meteorite then receives an official name based on its find location and is published in the Meteoritical Bulletin Database, the permanent scientific record for classified meteorites. Our guide to the Meteoritical Bulletin explains how that record works.
Ownership is a separate question from classification and depends on where the rock was found. In the United States, that generally comes down to whose land it landed on. The rules for private land, public land, and international finds are covered in are meteorites illegal to own.
Keep learning
Frequently asked questions
Who do I contact if I think I found a meteorite?
Start with the free home checks and a structured screening tool such as Meteorite Check. If the rock still looks promising, contact a university geology or planetary science department or a commercial meteorite classification lab. Send clear photos first rather than the rock itself.
Will a university test my rock for free?
Sometimes. Some departments screen photos or samples of suspected meteorites at no charge, but policies vary and many programs limit what they accept. Full laboratory classification is normally a paid service regardless of where it is done.
Do I have to give up part of my meteorite to get it classified?
Yes. Official classification requires depositing a type specimen of 20 grams or 20 percent of the total mass, whichever is less, in an approved repository under the Meteoritical Society's nomenclature guidelines. The deposit preserves material for future research.
Is my meteorite worth money?
It depends on the type, condition, and documentation. Common ordinary chondrites sell for modest prices per gram, while lunar, Martian, and other uncommon types command far more. Classification and documented provenance both add value. See our guide on how much meteorites cost.
Can I sell a meteorite that has not been classified?
Yes. Authentic unclassified meteorites are bought and sold legitimately, and many collectors start with them. Without a Meteoritical Bulletin entry, though, the sale rests on the seller's reputation and the specimen's documentation, so buyers expect honest labeling and clear provenance.